Hitachi C7UR - Retro Power

Hitachi corded circular saws have had a reputation for robust construction, power, and reliability that stretches back for decades. I still see 20-year-old examples of these tucked into the back of builders’ vans now.

Perhaps they aren’t used as often due to the cordless revolution, but they will be called upon as a back up, when a seriously demanding job is in the offing, writes PETER BRETT.

What are the USPs of the C7UR?

The USPs are few and quite simple, and perhaps betray a little of what I mentioned above. There are still times when mains power is needed, not only for a more powerful mains motor, but also for the extra speed of cutting.

Cordless is perfect for boards and such like, but sometimes the slow feed rate of a cordless motor cutting roof timbers, for example, simply will not do, as it holds up the job.

Power and Speed – the Main Features

The brushed motor on the C7UR features 1800W of power and a high RPM of 6,800 – so it is not only powerful, but fast. Compared to smaller and brushless motors we are becoming used to, it feels like a brute.

There is a definite torque kick when you press the trigger, and the noise level feels old fashioned as it runs. However, there is no doubt that the speed and power make for very efficient cutting.

One of my tests was cutting slices off a piece of 50mm thick brown oak. The motor didn’t slow at all – it simply sliced on through. It was even easier on some treated 50 mm thick softwood rafters.

However, I do miss some features I have got used to – I would like a motor or blade brake to stop the blade quickly after releasing the switch. This is perhaps where the role of the lower blade guard comes into the equation – see below.

The trigger switch arrangement is unusual too. There is a well-textured loop handle, with a space for a forefinger only.

The rest of the fingers fit into a separate aperture behind it, while the thumb goes over to meet the forefinger. The switch is a simple click for ‘on,’ and then release for ‘off’.

There is no safety release button or lever that is commonly found on circular saws - mains or cordless - these days. I pondered this a while, because the arrangement feels a bit retro.

The fact the forefinger has to find its own specific place to find the ‘on’ switch, helps to keep all intentions with the saw deliberate. It also helps there is a large and well-placed auxiliary handle in front of the main one.

For good guidance of the cut it is used a lot, and that helps keep both hands well clear of the blade.

As standard, the saw comes with an 18-tooth TCT 185 mm diameter blade. The blade has large gullets for clearing waste quickly and is also only about 2mm thick, so the resulting thin kerf also aids speedy cutting.

There is also the very nice feature of a powerful dust blower right over the cutting line, that helps keep it clear and visible.

Back to Base

Like many of its other saws, Hitachi has decided to use a solid alloy baseplate. At about 4mm thick it is rigid and squarely accurate, and there are eight countersunk screws to attach the saw and its adjustments, so that they don’t move.

They are therefore also easy to service. On the front and right hand side of the base measurements are marked in inches, betraying the fact the larger market is the US.

My guess is they will rarely be used by British and continental workers, except as a rough guide. A simple steel fence is included, with the kit for basic guided cuts.

Guarding the Blade

Another important feature is the cast alloy lower blade guard. This is robust, and the strong coil spring ensures that it quickly springs back to cover the blade at the end of a cut, thus partly answering the query I had above, about the need for a blade brake.

There are a couple of options here that need to be decided. Out of the box, a longer lever is fitted as standard for raising the lower blade guard.

It reaches fully to the top of the fixed upper blade guard, and therefore is easy to reach. It also keeps your fingers well away from the blade. Safety First indeed.

The downside to this is that the dust port on the upper guard, carefully designed to deposit a long, neat pile of dust alongside the base while cutting, can also be very messy, especially if it is a little windy on site.

For users who need good dust collection, they have the option of attaching the robust dust spout, (one screw only needed) that does indeed up the dust collection game quite considerably. When attached to an M-class extractor, there is not much cleaning up required at the end of a working day.

But in order to attach the dust spout, the longer guard-raising lever needs to be removed and replaced with a smaller one.

The downside is that when you need to lift the guard to start a cut, your fingers are closer to the blade – not dangerously close, but needing-to-be-careful close.


When it comes to adjustments the C7UR is spot on. Depth of cut and blade mitre angles are all achieved with cammed levers that are large enough to work easily and lock positively.

A nifty arrangement on the angle setting allows users to select 45 degree cuts, but if you need to select angles of 45 to 55 degrees, simply click the stopper out of the way and select the angle on the well-marked quadrant.

Blade changing is quick and easy via the hex key kept on the body and the spindle lock on the front of the motor, and I did appreciate the handy cable holder at the base of the main handle.

This helps to control the cord and prevent it accidentally going near the blade while cutting.

Why Choose the C7UR?

I suspect this saw will appeal to trades for the same reasons that older Hitachi models did. It is robustly built, powerful and simple to operate, as well as having the virtue of having a long service life – for example the brushes are located for easy replacement.

But is it also faster cutting and more powerful than its predecessors, and therefore it fits the current preoccupation with productivity and efficiency.

Aimed at: Pros and demanding amateurs, because it is well priced and tough

Pros: Fast cutting and powerful, strong and reliable

Why buy?

  • Tough
  • Reliable
  • Well priced
  • Quicker cuts
  • Easy adjustments
  • Cable holder for safer use
  • Big stable base

Triton portable oscillating Sander is unique and useful

ON the face of it, a portable oscillating spindle sander sounds VERY niche, and therefore not likely to be utilised in very great numbers.

I put this very point to the Triton team, who gave me an interesting response which went something like this: “As a brand, the customer is at the heart of everything we do and every product we create, writes PETER BRETT

“We have hand-held palm sanders, bench sanders and larger work bench, belt and spindle sanders, but we recognised we needed a spindle sander that was more portable, lighter and easy to use but could also be easily fi xed to the bench.”

“As our customer base grows, we need to ensure we can cater to all customers, and this appeared to be a key product that we were missing from the range.”

Triton Prepared to Step Out on a Limb?

On reflection, this response cheered me immensely because it shows a desire by Triton to develop original and interesting tools that carry a little risk in the market.

But then a look at the unique and, at the time, ‘out there’ designs of Triton routers and the Triton Superjaws, shows this approach can be very successful.

The Triton Portable Oscillating Sander is packed in a robust cardboard box and consists of the of the Sander body, with a healthy three metres of rubber cord, four spindles from 15mm to 40mm in diameter, two clamps, a dust extractor adaptor, a grippy rubber mat, and a small fence with screws to hold it in place.

The body containing the motor and gears is made of Triton yellow plastic, and is robustly put together. Handling is aided by some grippy black patches of rubber overmould, but the body is still quite square and you have to fi nd the best way of gripping it when using it freehand.

There is a simple rocker switch for on/off selection on the front turret, as well as a six-position milled wheel for selecting speeds.

This is very important for sanding diff erent materials, as well as taking into account the diff erent sizes of spindle which can be used.

The fastest speed is enough for rapid stock removal, but requires care and confidence on the part of the user, while the slower speeds are perfect for controlled shaping of components.

At slower speeds, for example, you can shape plastic or Perspex without melting them.

This tool is eminently portable, so fi rst of all I tried it in an inverted position. To emphasise the portability and versatility, I chose to attach it to a Workmate®.

This was easily done via the screw clamps which fitted neatly into holes in the body. Because these holes go all the way through the body, users have choices over the orientation of the sander.

It really helps if the rubber mat is placed underneath the machine to provide a bit more grip when the screw clamps are tightened, but it is not an absolute necessity as the contact points are quite flat.

Attaching the spindles is very easy – slide the rubber spindle core - with sanding sleeve - over the spindle, and a plasticheaded butterfl y nut is then screwed tightly on to secure it.

The rubber sleeve needs to expand a bit against the sanding sleeve to ensure it doesn’t move when sanding.

The equivalent of the sanding table on the base of the sander is quite small at about 8.5cm wide and 20cm long, and at first I thought this wouldn’t be big enough to handle the table legs I was shaping.

I was proved wrong. Because the speed of the spindle can be controlled, the control of the workpiece is easy. The clamps do a good job of keeping the body firmly on the workbench too.

Right Way Up Sanding

It takes a steady hand and a bit of confidence to use the sanderthe right-way-up with the base firmly pressed on the workpiece, with the spindle sanding the edges of the workpiece.

Unless the user takes a lot of care it can result in a series of small spindle-shaped ‘dents’ in these edges. To eliminate the problem Triton have included the aforementioned plastic fence.

This is attached via two butterfly nuts to the base, and needs to be placed with care to ensure the spindle just kisses the edge that needs to be sanded.

This arrangement resulted in a smooth sanded surface on  straight or curved edges.

I found I was able to use the sander freehand on edges to enable close fitting edges – just as long as I was careful to keep the base firmly flat on the surface of the workpiece.

The dust collection spout is standard 30mm diameter, and is easily connected to a vac with an adaptor.

Dust extraction is good enough to minimise cleaning, but it would probably be safer to wear a dust mask as well.

Suggestions I have a couple of niggles – by the time I had used the sander a couple of times on site the box had started to unravel, and I started to wish for a nice plastic custom case to safely store the sander and all the accessories that are important in making it work efficiently.

There is already a plastic tray in the box – so one step more please?

I would also like the clamps to be quick-release to save time on fixing to the bench, plank, or whatever. Those wing nuts take a bit of winding!

As an addition to the Triton range of sanders, this oscillating sander is very useful, because it strikes a good balance between portability, and being able to be used as a fixed machine.

It is clearly designed for dealing with smaller components and edges and is very good at those jobs. Bigger workpieces will need a benchtop machine.

Triton clearly has confidence is this sander because it comes with the Three-Year Triton Guarantee.

Aimed at: Shed woodworker and light pro users who need some specialist sanding.

Pros: Easy to use and also to set up. Uniquely solves a few sanding issues.

Accurate insulation needed? Try the Festool

I HAVE seen lots of different styles of insulation – from the ‘stuff-it-in-andhope-for-the-best' method, through to the obsessively neat ‘no gaps at any cost’.

Obviously the nearer you get to the ‘no-gaps’ style, the better the insulation factor. The Festool ISC 240 is the tool to help you do it.

Two Blades for Different Insulation Types

If you think of a cordless jigsaw with much longer and specialised blades, then you have a basic grasp of the way in which the saw works – but this being a Festool, the simplicity is only skin deep.

For the most rigid types of insulation material like PU foams, the jigsaw type of toothed blade is required.

This blade is supported by a wide blade backing, which keeps the long blade straight for accurate cutting into insulation, that could be up to 25cm thick.

Longer blades are available - I am told.

For less rigid insulation materials like rockwool or woollen batts, a different blade formation is required.

This consists of two extremely sharp ‘wavey’ blades, one of which reciprocates up and down the other - creating a kind of scissor action cut, that shears through material which tends to give a bit.

And the extras…

To ensure users get a straight and accurate cut, Festool engineers have designed a couple of bases to go with each blade type. The first of these clicks on near the top of the blade.

The base has two channels on it, that can be fitted into the channel along the back of a standard Festool guiderail. These enable users to cut millimetre perfect straight lines in harder types of insulation.

Again, for softer insulation where accuracy may not be as critical, but is certainly desirable Festool engineers have designed a small-wheeled sled that runs in the grooves of a Festool guide rail.

This sled is attached to the bottom end of the sharp ‘wavey’ blades.

When cutting, the guide rail is slid underneath the insulation so the insulation rests on it, and then the saw is slid down the guide rail - where the small weight of the insulation helps to keep it down for easier cutting.

A word of warning though – the ‘wavey’ blades are so sharp - it is best to keep them covered with the supplied bladeguard when they are not in use.

Cordless convenience

While it looks a bit like and cuts like a cordless jigsaw, the insulation saw has several features that sets it apart. For example, most users would notice the fine mesh covering the motor ventilation holes – these replaceable filters are designed to keep out fine insulation particles that could spell an early death to an electric motor.

The on/off switch cannot be accidentally switched – a definite safety factor with extremely sharp blades in action. It needs two quick pushes to start.

Dust extraction is extremely good, via the port on top of the saw head – it needs to be slid back to allow blade changes.

And finally, Festool has included two of its latest Bluetooth batteries that allow remote switching of a compatible vacuum extractor. A truly good thing, as the last thing any user wants to do is inhale ne insulation particles.

There is much more to say about this insulation saw. Having used it, I am impressed with both the ease of use and the accuracy.

Add to that cordless convenience and Bluetooth switching, and you have a very user friendly tool.

Here’s to warmer houses, courtesy of the Festool Insulation saw.

Safe, effective and modern welding with Morris Site Machinery

IT WAS BY kind invitation of Richard Denholm, Sales Director at Morris Site Machinery, that ToolBusiness + Hire came to Four Ashes near Wolverhampton to find out a lot more about the market, machines and expertise that are required in the world of welding –particularly hire welding.

Richard is what is called an ‘acknowledged expert’ in welding, having many years’ experience in the art - as well as working in executive positions in the industry, WRITES PETER BRETT.

It All Started Many Years Ago…

The art of fusing or welding metals was first known about in the Bronze Age as far as we can tell, and even today modern blacksmiths use a very high temperature to hammer fuse steel. 

The makers of Samurai swords and damascus steel used the skill of fusing metals to make high quality blades. But it was only in the 1890s that thermite welding became common. 

The oxy-acetylene process was discovered by Edmund Davey in 1836, but only became a viable welding method with the invention of a suitable torch in 1900.  

Since then several further methods of welding, including electric arc welding, have been developed. During World War II, for example, it was a quick and effective way of fabricating steel products without having to rivet steel plates together, as in the old days of shipbuilding. 

And it was a skill women seemed to be particularly good at, which helped save our bacon during those stressful times.

Further developments in electric arc welding took us into the realms of gas shielded welding and ultimately to the stick, MIG and TIG welders we most often use these days. 

As usual, it took some years before Health and Safety caught up with welding practices on the ground. Apparently, it was not uncommon for welders to be electrocuted by badly insulated welding machines. 

It was also not uncommon for welders to drink a pint of milk a day, in the belief that it would neutralise the toxins they were ingesting while welding. A faint hope, I think. 

Today, simple welding is accomplished using stick welding or MMA (Manual Metal Arc) welding. This is safe and simple welding within the skill level of DIYers, and is now increasingly catered for by machines costing as little as £100.

More advanced skills are needed for both MIG and TIG welding – both of these use a gas shielding of the welding arc, to create the strong and sealed welds needed for anything from food containers to battleships and submarines.

Modern welding machines have been made smaller and lighter due to the invention of inverter technology. 

Instead of using very heavy transformers to convert to the high currents needed to melt metals, inverters can be lighter and use advanced electronics to help manage welds by monitoring the electrical input and skills of the welder – thus making better welders and welds.

Modern welders are also blessed with a wide and effective range of safety gear including smart helmets, gauntlets and breathing masks needed for some processes.

MSM has linked with Jefferson to market its range of tools and safety gear for welding. Keenly priced, it is of serviceable quality, and appeals to casual hiring welders as well as professionals.

The Morris Site Machinery View

With all of the above knowledge and experience, Richard told me that MSM has had a 35-year long connection with ArcGen welders. 

These are made in Japan and although they are not the cheapest, many are still being used regularly after twenty years. Indeed, we saw some of these machines in the workshop being refurbished into ‘as new’ condition. 

The ArcGen machines have proved to be tough enough to withstand the rigours of the hire market where they are not only exposed to the British climate, but also the tender ministrations of their hirers. 

They are combined with the compatible power units that are used on site, shipbuilding and petro-chemical industries. 

The ArcGen Cobra 5000i Multi Process Inverter, which was recently included in MSM’s range of welders, is a multi-process inverter that will tackle TIG and MIG welding. 

As well as being available in multiples, the welder is suitable for heavy construction as well as hire. And when you have a Cobra, you also need the Adder – a portable wire feeder unit built into a strong plastic case designed to withstand damp conditions.  

To partner the ArcGen welders are the ArcGen Weldmaker Generators. Mounted on trailers and fully featured including auto engine shutdown and quiet operation, they are perfectly matched to ArcGen welders for peak efficiency. 

Service, Hire and Sales in a comprehensive package 

While at Four Ashes, Richard took us on a lightning tour of the premises, so we could get more of a flavour of the services and equipment that enable MSM to provide a comprehensive service to its hirers and equipment purchasers.  

There are sections devoted to repairs and servicing of everything from welders to pumps, and generators and pressure washers. Since much of the hire market is seasonally driven, there are peaks and troughs of machines and equipment that are in high or low demand.  

There are also production lines making up machines to meet orders placed. A small caravan of trailer generators was being assembled in one of the workshop areas, and would be ready for shipping in only a few days.  

Outside in the yard were hundreds of lighting towers – now not much in demand for hire in the lighter and longer days of spring and summer. But come October and the clocks going back, most will be hired out, lighting worksites again.  

Morris Site Machinery prides itself on listening to customers and being relentlessly customer focused. 

I think it is very interesting that the company has not chosen the ‘cheap and cheerful’ solution to hiring and selling machines of all kinds, but instead have chosen to focus on quality, value and efficiency rather than on ‘bottom line’ pricing. 

In the longer run MSM believes that this formula is more sustainable, and better value for money because higher quality machines perform better, last longer and are therefore ‘greener’ than so called cheaper solutions. 

The old adage that you get what you pay for, clearly applies here too.


Paslode IM360Ci –Don’t Give Up the Gas!

I ALWAYS think that cordless nailers are a bit like wrestlers – beefy, but they also pack a big punch, WRITES PETER BRETT.

Paslode nailers are legendary in the building industry, not only for packing the punch, but also for being a leading brand.  

In fact, I have often heard builders refer to any nailer as a Paslode, because it has become a generic term – like people referring to hoovers, rather than vacuum cleaners.

The new-ish Paslode IM360Ci was designed to be different and address a few of the problems that plague gas nailers.

These include low temperature performance, battery and fuel life, and general ease of use involving loading nails to clearing stoppages.

Problem solved? 

Builders have often told me they have had to start a winter working day by having to cuddle a few batteries in their jacket pockets - so they are ready to load into a nailer. 

Well, this problem has definitely been solved. During this tool’s development phase Paslode used it in working temperatures of -25C in Northern Europe/Scandinavia, without having to do any warming of batteries or fuel cells.  

I tried my best to replicate this by placing the nailer in the freezer overnight at a temperature of –15C - only to succeed in getting a layer of frost over the battery terminals. 

But with the frost removed, the tool worked to full capacity within a very short time. So, a large tick in that particular box. 

Battery life? Well again, this is a problem that Paslode seem to have solved – and with knobs on!  

In the spec it said the battery would power up to 13,000 shots on one charge. For any user that is a lot of nails.  

I had a team of users on a building site who tested out the tool for four days without recharging the battery.  

I felt there was a danger they would run out of power, simply because there was such a large amount of time between charges that they might forget to recharge - despite warning light indicators of gas and charge.  

They made the weak excuse that the indicator light needed to be brighter and more obvious! 

What users also liked a lot in the new design of nailer was the removable nail magazine cover. You simply unscrewed it via a black knob on the rear of the nail magazine.  

Flip up the cover, and the inner workings of the nail magazine are revealed all the way to the nose (it goes without saying the nailer is effectively stopped by moving the battery to the off’ position in its slot). 

From here, it is very easy to remove any nails that might be causing a blockage.  

The safety gains are excellent here, because it means you don’t have to start fiddling into the nose with a spare nail to access anything stuck in there.  

A Few Things…   

Although Paslode have solved a lot of the usability issues with batteries and stoppages, my team of testers managed to find a few things that bugged them.  

Firstly, the reversible rafter hook worked well in one position, but not on the opposite side because the gap on it became too small to hang it on a rafter.  

One team member commented he would simply bend the hook into compliance – not an option on a test tool, I think.  

The other gripe was an esoteric one from a well-seasoned Paslode user of 20 years standing.  

He didn’t like the new position of the battery and gas cell, because it made it bulkier on the right of the tool and prevented it from going as close to the work as on the left-hand side.  

Others said it made no real difference to the way in which they handled the tool, and it certainly had a positive effect on the tool's centre of gravity.  

However, when it came to weight, the team was impressed that the power to weight ratio (so to speak) was excellent. The way the nailer drove all types of nails was emphatic and no nonsense – doing just what a nailer should do.  

The weight of nailers is definitely an issue for some users – especially those that work overhead a lot, and it is this area that gas nailers still have a significant advantage over battery only nailers.  

Another definite ‘Yes’ point was the five-pointed nose probe, that gave very positive grip into the timber surface at whatever angle the nailer was presented. This was considered a very good safety feature.  

Setting the depth of the nails was another plus which was picked out by users. They all commented on how easy it was to do, and it stayed set. If you need to regularly change nail sizes then life is definitely easier.

When it comes to speed, the nailer could be fired as fast as the trigger could be pulled, and the nose placed where the next nail was needed - so no complaints there! 

The seasoned Paslode user complained about the price of the roundheaded nails that had to be used in it, and that might be an issue which could prevent user uptake.  

However, as I recently discovered, the IM360Ci can be used to fire Nailscrews – a good idea from Paslode, aimed mostly at cladding specialists.  

The round-headed screws fire like nails for a good fixing, but can be removed by simply unscrewing them via the Torx head on the Nailscrew. Unfortunately, the idea of Nailscrews doesn’t fit well with clipped head nails, so it becomes a matter of choice of solutions for the end user. 


There is no doubt the Paslode IM360Ci is a well-designed tool, that does what it should do without fuss and also solves a lot of issues like low temperature performance, and clearing stoppages easily.  

It will not only be bought by ‘Paslodeers,’ but may also convert others to the gas-power faith as gas technology gives greater power and drivability.  

However I haven’t been living in a box, so I am aware there is some new technology out there for nailers – like nailers which use standard battery power only and with no gas involved.  

At this moment in time, I think it is too early to plump for one or the other as neither technology has all the answers.  

But I do think there is no immediate danger of gas power being replaced – as this sophisticated nailer proves. 

Four decades of Triton excellence continues


IT MAY have crept up on some people – it certainly did on me – that Triton are celebrating 40 years of woodworking and woodworking tools. 
And in the spirit of the original Australian brand, the new ranges of tools are no-nonsense, practical and usable - thus bringing woodworking to the range of users who want to get on with making things, but don’t necessarily have the time, place or inclination to learn esoteric techniques. 

Pocket Hole Jigs  
Jointing materials is at the heart of the skill of making things. Even at school I was told there were ‘good’ joints like mortise and tenons, or dovetails that were ‘better’ than simple lap joints.  

But things have changed dramatically. Screw technology and cordless drill drivers have made simple screw joints strong, and practical solutions for jointing. 

New and widely available materials like MDF and OSB are cheaper and more suitable to modern application, and can be easily cut and shaped with hand tools, or an increasingly available range of cordless tools. 

So, enter the Triton range of pocket hole jigs – a range of jigs to suit every budget from the single user to the professional. 

How Pocket Hole Jigs Work  
Carpenters use skew nailing all the time – hammering a nail in at an angle in one piece of timber to join with another. Pocket holing is like skew nailing, but with the built-in strength and accuracy of using jigs to ensure accurate and strong results every time - something that skew nailing doesn’t always do, even for skilled carpenters.  

At a cost of just £14.99, the Triton Single Mini Pocket-Hole Jig comes with the all-important drill bit, driver bit a depth stop, 20 large head screws, and 10 plug dowels. 

The instruction booklet includes a few simple sketches to help users set up the jig correctly to take account of the thickness of the materials being joined, and the necessity of setting the depth collar on the drill bit to get the screws to be firmly driven into the receiving material.  

What is noticeable is the jig is solidly made in a glassfibre/nylon material which is rigid and strong, and will clearly take a bit of punishment. The driver bit hole for drilling the pocket is lined with a steel insert to ensure accurate drilling for the life of the jig. 

Making a series of single pocket holes in boards may take a bit of time setting each one up, but it is still a cost-effective way of making strong joints. 

More Complicated 
For those users who might want to join stretchers on tables and stools for example, the Double Mini Pocket-Hole Jig will be worth the cost of £24.99, because it will save a lot of extra setting out – you get two screw joints for each set-up. 

But if you only need a single pocket then that is possible too. The same number of screws etc, as the single jig, are included here too.  

I was more at home with this jig. I found it easier to clamp than the single jig, as it had more clamping area. 

For the 'More Expert' 
The more experienced user might want to consider spending £29.99 on an adjustable Pocket-Hole Jig. This offers users the possibility of adjusting the distance between pocket holes, to take account of different widths of timber. 

This can be very useful in avoiding imperfections in timber, as well as allowing the user to space screw joints where they would be more efficient in the construction. 

Reflecting its ‘higher status,’ the jig is made in cast alloy for strength and durability. The space settings are tightened with an included hex key and can be set in metric or imperial measurements. 

Screws, cover dowels, drill bit, depth collar and driver bit are all included. 

Professional Stuff… 
Professionals using pocket hole jointing techniques need the convenience of a speedy set up, and robust and reliable jigs that will take a bit of a hammering when flung into a toolbox or the back of a van. 

Here the choice is between two kits – the 7-Piece at £59.99 and the 8-Piece at £69.99. The sets are the same, but the bigger set includes a very handy wide-mouthed clamp that is excellent for clamping the workpiece securely.  

At the launch of these jigs the Triton Team cleverly engineered a situation where we  press reviewers were encouraged to make a simple frame using pocket holes. 

A brilliant idea, because the process of getting ‘hands-on’ is a key to understanding how the jigs work. 

With a few minutes of explanation we were given some ply, some tools, and some jigs then guided through the process. I have to admit that using the professional jig with a built-in workpiece clamp, makes life a lot easier - because it is simple to adjust and simple to operate. 

This makes for a minimal setting up time and is something professionals need. What also became clear to me is that the jigs are strong and well-made, and will last for years even in a professional trade environment.  

It is also handy the jigs can be screwed to a sub-base that could be held on a portable worktable, or workbench. The jig is much easier to use when the pieces to be jointed are not moving the jig.  

What I learned from the exercise is jigs make the process of pocket hole jointing quite easy, but following instructions and accurate lining up of materials is crucial to getting the perfect joint. But even the non-perfect joints were still strong enough to be serviceable.  

It is good to see Triton has full confidence in the pocket-hole range of jigs, because they all come with a three-year guarantee.

Of course, product users will also need to top up on screws and plug dowels, and they are freely available online and in regular Triton stockists.

Honda EU22i The Case for Portable Power

I like the idea of portable power, hence my fascination with battery technologies. But, battery power has its limits and there is still a strong case for having the extra oomph of a generator nearby that can provide a power plug in. This has been reinforced for me recently with a series of power cuts in the village in Sussex where I live. During the longest power cut I was right in the middle of converting some rough oak planks into more manageable square edged pieces ready for thicknessing, when the power went off. Luckily, I had the power of the Honda EU22i to turn to. It was literally only a matter of minutes before I was able to get going again - with my guide rail saw plugged into the generator I was able to finish the job. Unfortunately, the power stayed off long enough to prevent me cooking a healthy meal so I was forced to go out for fish and chips!!

It was great to have a real situation in which to try out the Honda and experience the genuine relief and convenience of having an alternative source of energy. My family in South Africa all have a generator on hand in the garage, or wherever, to take the strain during power cuts. In Europe, we are probably less reliant on emergency power sources, but judging from the number of small generators I see at food and music festivals etc, we aren’t slow to recognise their usefulness.

Appearances Do Matter

The Honda EU22i is very handsomely and neatly enclosed in its bright red and grey plastic casing with a huge carrying handle on top. This neatness emphasizes how compact and simple the machine is to operate, but also how portable and convenient it is.

There are a couple of ‘doors’ into the casing – on one side undoing a screw will release the large panel that conceals the all-important oil filler/level checker and air filter box. All the wires and connections are neat and well protected so it seems as though a little bit of damp won’t affect them.

On the other side, a smaller ‘door’ reveals the spark plug and connector. This makes changing and checking spark plugs pretty straightforward.

Controls and Operation

The business end is the most important part since it contains all the controls, warning lights and outlet plugs. It is neatly and logically laid out with the two three-pin 230v outlets dominating. They have covers over them to help with weather protection – as it is clear that this generator will be used outdoors in one of our famously wet summers.

There is an array of warning lights for oil, overload and output so the motor is easy to monitor.

There is also an AC circuit protector and a couple of parallel operation outlets and the eco throttle switch that can be used to slow the motor when the power being taken is not at full requirements.

What is clear is that the switchgear is simple and clear and easy to operate. Even someone not familiar with the generator could quickly learn the basic controls to be able to use it safely and efficiently.

On the opposite side of the casing is a grille panel that conceals the exhaust outlet. This grille protects users from the inevitable heat produced by the motor and reduces the possibility of accidental burns.

To make it as easy as possible to start the motor - and I do hate struggling to start motors – the motor pull cord, motor control switch and choke lever are all on one side of the generator.

Of course, you do need to check the oil and petrol levels before you begin – this takes a couple of minutes. I have already mentioned the oil filler, which simply needs unscrewing to check the oil level. The petrol tank cap is placed on top of the machine right next to the main handle. It uses a robust cap which is unscrewed to reveal a filter that fits closely into the neck of the tank. The filler cap has a lever on top that vents the tank. When not in use, the vent has to be sealed to help prevent fuel leakage. To start the motor, the fuel tank vent has to be opened, the motor switch set to ‘On’ and, depending on conditions, the choke lever may have to be set to ‘closed’. I found it easy to start the motor by grabbing hold of the main handle and pulling on the starter cord. Modern engines like the Honda do not have that fierce compression kickback that old motors had, and it only took half a dozen pulls on the cord to get the motor going.

Practical ‘In Use’ Experience

Although at just over 19Kgs, the Honda fits into EU weight and manual handling rules, I am happy that I didn’t have to carry it very far. The huge grab handle certainly helps to manage the carrying, and I am sure a burly builder would have no problems bringing it onto site up a few flights of stairs. The truth is that the generator is going to spend most of its life placed on a flat surface producing power, so carrying it is not its most important feature. However, in pretty well every other respect, the Honda is an ideal small generator. Its fully enclosed case provides bump and weather protection, as well as making it a neat and unobtrusive package wherever it sits.

I was really impressed with the low noise levels emanating from the motor. You do not have to raise your voice to be heard, even close up to it.

Power output was enough for me to run a couple of power tools from it simultaneously and keep up a conversation with my workmate as we both worked.

In short, the Honda EU22i is a compact and powerful bit of kit that is genuinely portable and very easy to use. It won’t annoy bystanders with excess noise and has the reputable and reliable Honda engine that starts easily and is easy to maintain. 

Lots to Like!


Aimed at: leisure and professional users, camping, festivals etc etc

Pros: Portable, efficient and quiet

Triton Sanders Mobile and Stationary Options for a Good Job Easily Done

Sanding has never been my favourite task, but became tolerable with the invention of longer-lasting abrasives and much better sanding machines. The picture has now been complicated by the research into the dangers of dust inhalation. The knowledge has led to legislation, so even ‘one-man-bands’ now have to use M level dust collection on site. But dust collection in home workshops shouldn’t be ignored either. Time to invest in masks and vac extraction?

The two Triton sanders that were sent for review solidly reflect the innovations in sanding that have taken place, and they also feature good dust extraction and other safety features that make modern sanding much less of a chore.

Oscillating Versatility

The Triton 350W Oscillating and Tilting Table Spindle Sander would find a very valuable place in many small workshops. It comes under the heading of a Very Useful Machine. Making, shaping and sanding small curved components can be very challenging and slow if the only tools you have are small drum sanders in a drill, or a bit of abrasive wrapped around a curved shape or dowel.


It took just over 25 minutes from opening the box and reading the instructions to getting a sample bit of timber sanded. This shows that the machine is simple to use and adjust and users will be able to swap sanding spindles and adjust the table etc without tools.

5 sizes of sanding sleeve are provided and the compression washers for each of these. There are also three round table inserts and three inserts with elongated holes for when the spindle is used tilted.

To ensure that all of these small components are readily available when needed, two storage units are attached to each side of the sander to contain them.

Changing the spindles is very easy by simply undoing the wingnut (left hand thread) and lifting out the spindle. Ensuring that the hole in the table insert matches the size of the spindle makes sure that the work is well supported and the maximum amount of dust is extracted. The elongated ‘circles’ are used when the table is set at an angle so that angled edges can be sanded. Adjusting the table is also simple – just loosen the two knobs under the cast alloy table and set the angle on the protractor.

Dust Extraction

Dust collection is via the extraction port under the table. When connected to a vac extractor most of the dust is collected but it is still wise to wear a dust mask to avoid the inevitable airborne particles.

In the Workshop

Because it stands up quite straight and has a small footprint, this sander can fit into a corner of a workshop quite well. Ideally, I would mount it on a small, wheeled base (holes are provided in the base for secure attachment) so that it could be moved around. Occasionally you might need to sand some bigger workpieces so it is handy to be able to move it.

I used the sander for quite a lot of shaping tasks from table legs to trays and I found that it performed well. It feels straightforward and safe to use with the NVR switch right on the front of the machine for easy access. The oscillating motion is steady and helps to clear dust quickly from the work as well as avoiding burns and scratches on the timber.

Because it is easy to use and adjust there is no excuse for not changing the spindles to the correct sizes needed for each job.

Triton 650W Portable Oscillating Spindle Sander

This tool looks like no other sander I have used so I needed to have a thorough read-through of the instructions with a step-by-step look at switches, controls etc. It occurred to me that Triton have gone out on a limb with this machine because it is innovative and yet niche.

It consists of a plastic body that contains the motor and oscillating gear in a sort of bulky H-shape with a spindle emerging from one of the legs of the H.  My first thought was that it offered no obvious place to grip it easily for portable sanding jobs – but after using it a bit more I learned its logic and all became clear.

Used in stationery mode – very useful on site or where space might be tight – the machine can be clamped to a workbench, a workmate or even a bit of sheet material on a couple of trestles. In this inverted mode, the oscillating spindle is upright and is surrounded by a small area that serves as a support ‘table’ for the workpiece. This is good for edge sanding of small workpieces. To help the machine to grip onto the substrate when clamped, a shaped rubber mat is supplied and this really helps to prevent movement in use.

Versatile and Easy

But there is more versatility to be had. Used with the sanding spindle facing downwards, the machine can be moved across edges rather than the edges being moved along the spindle. This is a very useful when sanding edges of worktops in situ for example. With the edge guide that screws into the base it is possible to get a very controlled sanded edge with no ‘dig-ins’ along it. Something that I used to great effect with an oak bench top I was preparing for a client.

The motor is quite buzzy but powerful, and has 6 adjustable speeds that would be necessary for controlled and speedy sanding. On/off is a simple rocker switch above the speed selection dial.  With a selection of three spindles and sanding sleeves supplied, users can select the right one for the job.

Dust extraction is pretty simple in benchtop mode – an extraction nozzle is clipped into the end of the machine and the vac is plugged into that. In mobile mode, I found that dust extraction was best served by using a lightweight hose that moved easily as I moved the machine along the edges I was sanding.  A niche machine it may be, but getting used to it proved to me that it has some unique solutions to some difficult sanding conundrums.


Aimed at: Small Pro and amateur workers who need to shape edges safely

Pros: Efficient, safe and effective edge sanding with no burns or marks – if you follow the instructions.

Flex CS 62 Portable Circular Saw Brushless Power with Cordless Convenience

I became a fan of this saw within about ten minutes of using it. I happened to be cutting up some 75mm thick, hard American Maple when it arrived. I thought that there was no time like the present, slotted a battery pack into it and started cutting. The brand-new blade was sharp as a razor, the power delivery was spot on and although the depth of cut, at 62mm, wasn’t quite enough to cut through the 75mm thickness of the maple, there was not even a change of note from the motor as it sliced through the timber. Now that is a good first impression. And subsequent use just proved that my first impression was the correct one. This must be a first – a recommendation for a product by the end of the first paragraph of a review.

The Details

It is clear on close examination that Flex has done its homework on what is needed for a cordless circular saw. These saws are often used for smallish cutting and trimming jobs, often working at height or in awkward situations. They do need to be accurate, powerful enough, light and easy to handle, and with enough adjustment to be versatile on the worksite. Used with a straightedge, they should also be able to cut boards of all kinds like ply, OSB and MDF.  With a depth of cut of 62mm one can appreciate that smallish is not always that small.

Construction of the saw base, blade guard and adjustments is of a well finished cast alloy. And I do mean well finished – there are no bumps and glitches to spoil it and the actual base of the saw is flat and square. Another nice touch is the slight rounding over of the front of the base so that feeding it into a cut is eased.

All of the adjustments on the saw body and base are toolless via small plastic-handled cam clamps. They are very positive and easy to use and clamp tightly when set. One of my pet hates is too much free play in the depth of cut settings on portable circular saws, but there is no problem with the Flex. And the depth setting is accurate too. When it comes to blade angle settings there are a couple of nice touches too. The protractor blade settings have a clear white on black scale for easy reading. There are also three fixed settings at 50, 45 and 22.5 degrees that are selected via a small control knob so these angles can be set accurately for repeat cuts.

Features and Benefits

The body and motor housing are made of Flex Red plastic – strong and well put together and certainly able to withstand a few knocks. There is a compact EC (brushless) motor that is very quiet and torquey. It sits directly underneath the main handle so that your hands feel as though they are operating on the centre of gravity, although the handle does appear to be set higher than other equivalent saws from other makers.

Somehow Flex has managed to include a bright LED light underneath the handle where it is not quite as visible as it might be, but the overspill of light is still generally useful. Right next to the light is the spindle lock needed for changing the blade with a hex key attached nearby.

Some users might think that the handle position is a bit high but the position of the auxiliary handle allows the saw to be guided easily, and in fact keeps your view of the blade and cut line clear. The handles have a good coating of black rubberised overmould for grip. In order to start the saw, the safety button has to be depressed before the trigger can be pulled. This is suited to both left and right handers.

Another feature I liked was that the brushless motor has a brake that stops the blade within a couple of seconds after the trigger is released.

There are also a couple of options when it comes to collecting dust. On a cordless saw where users might not yet have sorted out the option of dust collection via a cordless vacuum, the small dust bag does a remarkably good job of collecting the fairly large amounts of dust thrown out by the blade. The bag is robustly made with a nylon mesh outer and clips into place, so it does not simply fall off as a push fit bag might. It is fair to say that it keeps clients happy when working indoors as the dust that escapes is minimal, but you will need to keep an eye on when the bag needs emptying. A task that is easy to do because the bag simply unclips. The dust does not need to be emptied through a small nozzle.

Another option is to fit the dust spout. This too is clipped into place and is a standard 35mm fitting for most small dust extractor vac nozzles.

Finally, there is a small pressed steel fence that can be attached in slots either in front of or behind the blade. I rarely use them, preferring to rely on a straightedge instead. But still no searching in the box for the fixing screws for it – they are a simple cam clamp fixing.


The Flex CS 62 comes in a handsome fitted L-Boxx with two batteries and a charger. Although nominally rated at 5 Ah I find that the battery packs perform well and charge efficiently. I especially like the fact that Flex chargers have a minutes countdown on them so you know exactly how long you have to wait for your battery to be fully charged.

There is a lot of value and performance built into this saw and current Flex users should find it a no-brainer to acquire should they need a circular saw. Its features should also appeal to others looking for a good quality, well specified cordless circular saw. I like it very much.


Aimed at: Pro and demanding amateurs who need a quality tool

Pros: Efficient, easy to use and adjust, robustly made with a good depth of cut.


Draper 12v Capacitor Jump Starter Safe Starting

I, like many others, am slowly learning that I can’t do without the smart electronics in my car. It enables the phone and music connections, satnav etc etc that I rely on increasingly. But these same complicated electronics are so sensitive that merely disconnecting the battery to replace a light bulb can entail an hour’s worth of work resetting all the electronics - from the clock to the automatic headlight dipping.

In simpler times, jump starting an ‘analogue’ car involved just connecting some jump leads from another car battery, making sure the polarity matched up and then hitting the ignition key. 12v was 12v and that was all that mattered.

Smart Electronics

But modern cars are all different and have different balances and systems for their electronics. Hence the need for ‘smart’ or diagnostic jump starters that ‘read’ the systems and inform the users once they are connected. The Draper 12v Capacitor Jump Starter (part number 82957) is just such a device. It is part of a bigger range of Draper Jump Starters and is aimed at emergency starting for petrol engines up to 6 litres and diesel engines up to 3 litres.

It is compact and light – weighing only 1.294 Kgs and measuring 25 cm long, 12cm wide and 5cm deep. The Draper Blue box that houses the innovative electronics is completely surrounded by protective ‘bumpers’ on all the edges and the back has a very handy summary of specs, operating instructions and an all-important warning panel.

The Differences between Capacitors and Batteries

Capacitors and batteries are similar in that they are both ways of storing electricity. Batteries use chemicals to store electricity and because of the ‘delays’ that chemistry has in taking up a charge they are slower to charge and discharge. Capacitors on the other hand, store electricity in a ‘force field’ between plates and, when called upon, can deliver a burst of power very quickly and at full voltage. Capacitors are usually smaller and lighter than their equivalent battery counterparts because they do not have to accommodate chemical cells and heavy metals.

This Draper Jump Starter works on a capacitor system that makes it compact and light – in fact small enough to store in a glove box ready for a starting emergency. It is certainly less of a hassle to have in the boot than a pair of 2 metre long jump leads I have used in the past.

Some Details

The Jump Starter comes in a cardboard box that, if it were kept in good condition, is perfect for storing the device, because it protects it from bumps and knocks as well as providing some protection against splashes and liquids.

The Starter has three switches – an off/on switch, a switch for the built-in torch and a switch for the Li Ion back-up battery. The torch has several modes that are selected by cycling through on the button. The first mode is a bright LED light that is useful on dark nights under car bonnets. The second is a quickly flashing light, and the third mode is a Morse code SOS signal. These last two modes provide some light for working by, but are also useful as warning beacons if you are stuck by the side of a road.

The clamp leads are quite short with only about 28 cm of reach. This means that, in use, the Starter has to be perched on top of the engine or side wing closest to the battery location. Unlike some jump starter cables, the clamp cables on the Draper are quite light and flexible so they are easy to handle. The copper contact parts of the clamps are largely covered by a plastic sheathing that will minimise accidental contact between them. While they are stiff enough to ensure good contacts on the poles of the battery, the clamp springs are not so tight that they are difficult to handle. They also open wide enough for easy clipping to the battery poles.

Two methods of charging the capacitor are supplied in the box. The first is a standard 12v lead for sliding into the power socket in the car, the second is a 5v USB cable that will also fit most modern cars that can accommodate an MP3 player.

Using the Jump Starter

For the first use of the device it must be charged for 24 hours, though it has been precharged during production. This ensures that the Li Ion cells are fully charged ready for the emergency. To maintain a ‘top-up’ charge after the initial charging, the USB charger will take about four hours to top up the battery, while the 12v DC lead will charge the device in around 50 minutes.

Using the Jump Starter is simplicity itself. Connect the two cable clamps to the correct battery terminals and press the power on button the LED display will indicate the voltage and internal resistance of the battery. If your car battery had enough remaining energy to charge the capacitors then you will see the display indicating that the machine is taking on charge, if not then then press the back up battery boost button to charge the capacitors from the in-built lithium 10v batteries

After a couple of minute’s charging, the capacitor is ready to start the car as indicated by the LED “display jumpstart ready”. If all does not go to plan after ten seconds of turning the car engine over, then the device will have to be rested for about 30 seconds before trying again.

Connecting the clamps to the battery terminal can also tell you via the LED display whether the battery is chargeable or whether it needs replacing.

The recent below freezing weather has seen the Draper Jump Starter doing some sterling service for the cars in my close, with one neighbour who is too mean to buy a new car battery, having to use it every morning for a week. There is no doubt that its compact size and ease of use make it a very useful device. There is no doubt that garages and roadside emergency services would find this useful – as they could have it charged and ready in their vehicles.


Aimed at: Car owners, mechanics and break down professionals

Pros: Compact, well priced, easy to use and effective.


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